We have a couple of biggies in this last round-up for the month of June. We begin first with Vacheron Constantin’s epic Les Cabinotier Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 watch, a watch that combines 23 complications into a case that is just 13.6mm thick. Next, we have a brand new perpetual calendar watch from Patek Philippe. Patek Philippe is widely credited for giving us the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch, so every new perpetual calendar watch from them is a little special. In this round-up, we take a look at the very charming new Ref. 5320G. And from the Land of the Rising Sun, we have the Citizen Eco-Drive One, the world’s thinnest solar-powered watch. Find out how Citizen managed to create a solar-powered watch that is just 2.98mm thick.
Elsewhere, we have stories from the world of independent watchmaking, beginning with the news of Peter Speake-Marin leaving his eponymous brand. Find out what Peter will be up to next. To wrap things up, we visit the workshop of one of the most revered and prominent independent watchmakers, the creator of the iconic Antiqua and the man behind the epic Harry Winston Opus 3, the one and only Vianney Halter.
1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 Watch Hands-On
The quartz 5620 movement within powers the analog three-hand time telling with the addition of a countdown timer for regatta racing, together with a host of electronic displays. If you didn’t know, the rationale countdown timers are significant to yacht racing and so frequently found on such watches is that boats get a running start (five minutes) before crossing the starting line that they will need to period very carefully. The digital works can reveal three time zones, chronograph, timer, (endless) calendar info, and two alarms. I will continue to state that negative LCD displays are only inferior to positive ones and can only be regarded as a sacrifice of legibility for aesthetics. The regatta countdown timer is activated by the red button at 9 o’clock and activates a set of alerts with recognizable ringing sequences (sounds stressful for me).Some differences from the Skywalker X-33 (hands-on here) in the Omega Speedmaster X-33 Regatta ETNZ Limited Edition watch comprise design cues for ETNZ, the particular functions meant for ship racing mentioned previously, and of course, the omission of Skywalker in the name. The colors are of the New Zealand flag, and the blue ring at 9 o’clock that appears to reference a analog subdial is new and cool-looking. I happen to believe that a more colorful way of the X-33, as we saw here with the Skywalker X-33 Solar Impulse watch, makes it seem a lot more contemporary and fun.We do not have caseback graphics for now, but Omega tells us that it is “stamped with the EMIRATES TEAM NEW ZEALAND logo and engraved with ‘CHALLENGER FOR THE 35TH AMERICA’S CUP,’ ‘X-33 REGATTA,’ and the limited edition number.” The bi-directional rotating bezel, made of a ceramic-titanium mix (must be quite mild), comprises litle stars in the “compass points” in area of the air (stylized spaceship? K rail?) Symbols of the Skywalker. Omega says that the stars represent the Southern Cross on New Zealand’s flag. We can presume that there will be lume on the palms and indices, as well as the 12 o’clock star on the bezel, along with a back light for the electronic displays.
The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 is a watch of grand numbers. But you probably already know that from its imposing name. 5 years of development, 23 complications, 6 barrels offering over 500 hours of power reserve, 514 components, and a caliber that, in spite of all its complications, is just a mere 13.6mm thick. But all of that is dwarfed by its $1,000,000 price tag. It is a thoroughly impressive watch and we got the chance to get up close and personal with it recently. Check out our report by hitting the link below.
2. Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G Watch Hands-On
Patek Philippe is widely credited for giving us the first perpetual calendar wristwatch. As such, a new perpetual calendar watch from Patek Philippe is always something of an occasion, especially for the hardcore Patek collectors. For 2017, Patek Philippe released a new perpetual calendar watch called the Ref. 5320G, which adapts and combines traits of various vintage Patek perpetual calendar watches. It’s a charming watch for sure, with an interesting stepped case construction, creamy ivory dial, and unique syringe-style hour and minute hands. For readers lucky enough to be considering a new perpetual calendar, this has got to be one of your top considerations.
3. Citizen Eco-Drive One Watch Review
In the world of quartz watches, the Japanese reign supreme. After all, it was a Japanese company – Seiko – that gave the world its first quartz watch. Apart from Seiko, Citizen is another one of the world’s largest manufacturers of quartz and digital watches. Citizen is perhaps most famous for its Eco-Drive watches. First introduced around 1995, these are solar-powered watches that had solar cells hidden under the dial, allowing them to have a cleaner and more pleasing look. Last year, Citizen announced a new breakthrough Eco-Drive watch aptly called the Eco-Drive One, which is just 2.98mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest solar-powered watch. Here’s our review of this engineering marvel.
4. Bulova Moon Watch Chronograph 98A186 For 2017 Hands-On
Only a handful of brands can lay claim to having been on the moon. Omega is perhaps the most famous of them all, but so has Bulova. Despite Omega being the official watch of for missions to the moon, that didn’t stop astronauts from wearing additional watches of their own. One of such watches to make its way to the moon was a chronograph by Bulova worn by astronaut Dave Scott. Bulova, keen to impress upon the world its space credentials, released a modern replica of the watch that astronaut Dave Scott wore to the moon last year. For 2017, they are updating that modern reissue with a new darker and stealthier model that you see here.
5. Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On
Chanel is arguably more famous for its ladies handbags and fragrances, but last year, Chanel made headlines for releasing a new men’s watch called the Monsieur de Chanel. By all accounts, it is a great watch. I love the styling and it even has an in-house movement designed by the extremely talented Romain Gauthier. For 2017, Chanel is introducing a new version that comes in a platinum case and a gorgeous black grand feu enamel dial. Gorgeous, that’s one word that I never thought I would use to describe a Chanel watch.
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